Two km east of Pujung, take the road opposite the road to Taro. On the way, stop and see the Duckman, the first Balinese sculptor to carve ducks on a commercial scale-he's quite famous now. The Sebatu area is the best place on Bali to buy small wooden crafts. There's a cluster of shops in the countryside selling painted wooden suns, moons, stars, flying goddesses and animals.

See the huge elephants at the shop Sedana Yogya. In Telepud, Wayan Astika carves fanciful suns and moons in natural browns and black stains, as well as stools in the shape of striped cats. He and other carvers create made-to-order work as well.

When the road goes down, turn right toward Sebatu. In a small valley before the village is the Pura Gunung Kawi, a bathing place with stone statues of maidens spouting water, carved stone 'naga', sacred golden carp and lichen-covered ancient walls. The temple is in an exceptionally pretty spot against a backdrop of rich green foliage. At dusk small bats fill the air. Discreetly, have a look at the people having 'mandi', but don't take photos. The rectangular bathing place is separated into men's and women's sections.

Sebatu is a village of woodcarvers and musicians. In front of the temple are a few shops displaying a mass of wooden crafts. Look for sensual figures and exquisitely carved 'garuda' statuary. Note the difference between the masks of Mas and those of Sebatu. The lines and colors of masks from Mas are pure, while those of Sebatu are more exuberant. Mas makes god's masks, Sebatu devil's masks. Every three days the village 'pasar' takes place in the area in front of the temple.

From the temple, the road continues to the peaceful village itself, which few tourists ever visit. It consists mainly of one street of houses decorated with plants and flowers. The village is very active in dance and music, renowned as much as Peliatan. It's home to a noted dance troupe that once toured the world. Ask to see the photos of Balinese in fur coats in London.

Incredibly, this small village possesses three orchestras. Rehearsals take place at 2000 every night, except during harvest. This is an opportunity to see people performing without enduring the clicking of cameras and flashes. Travelers without their own transportation should be aware that 'bemo' back to Ubud stop running around 1600 or 1700. From Sebatu, a small road before the temple leads to Tampaksiring and on to Gunung Batur.