Opposite Blahbatuh's 'pura' is
the road leading straight to Kutri (five kilometers).
About 400 meters south of the village is Pura Pedarman
(or Pura Durga Kutri) the 'pura puseh' of Kutri,
lying at the bottom of the hill of Bukit Dharma.
It was built in honor of King Airlangga's mother,
Gunapriadarmapatni (Mahendradatta), a Javanese princess
who married Udayana, a prince from the Warmadewa
dynasty, at the end of the 10th century.
She came to Bali to rule until her death in 1006.
This royal widow-sorceress cursed and plagued her
own son's kingdom. Scholars speculate that she is
the historical origin of the witch-queen Rangda.
Possibly the queen was cremated on this hill. Her
ashes then taken to Gunung Kawi where a tomb dedicated
to her was carved out of the riverbank.
In the temple's inner sanctum in the small, white
shrine on the right are several statues of Durga.
From the lower temple, climb the steep stone steps
to the summit of Bukit Dharma through a forest of
banyan trees gripping huge volcanic boulders. At
the top is a sanctuary with an 11th-century stone
frieze of Durga standing on a 'nandi' (bull), possessed
by a demon while she delivers the deathblow to the
Though well-worn, her face is still arresting.
She carries all the trappings of almost unlimited
supernatural power: javelin, shield, bow and arrow,
winged conch shell, flaming sharp-edged disk (chakra),
and flask containing 'amerta'. With its fine classic
Indian lines, this relief is considered one of the
most finely wrought sculptures left from the early
North of Kutri, Tegallinggah, a complex of unfinished
hewn-rock cloisters, niches, pavilions, and 'candi'
that has the appearance of a mini Gunung Kawi was
abandoned because of an earthquake or some other
natural disaster. When it was discovered by Krijgsman
in the 1920s, most of the facades and niches had
Excavation and restoration began in the 1950s.
You'll need a guide because the access is difficult.
South of Kutri is the small village of Buruan, the
home of well-known sculptors and dancers. In the
banjar of Bangun Liman to the west, the 'pura desa',
'pura puseh' and the 'pura dalem' have been built
all in a row.
Usually these temples are in different locations
in the village. Down on the riverbanks, to the west
of Bangun Liman, troupes of wild monkeys live in
a natural habitat.