Opposite Blahbatuh's 'pura' is the road leading straight to Kutri (five kilometers). About 400 meters south of the village is Pura Pedarman (or Pura Durga Kutri) the 'pura puseh' of Kutri, lying at the bottom of the hill of Bukit Dharma. It was built in honor of King Airlangga's mother, Gunapriadarmapatni (Mahendradatta), a Javanese princess who married Udayana, a prince from the Warmadewa dynasty, at the end of the 10th century.

She came to Bali to rule until her death in 1006. This royal widow-sorceress cursed and plagued her own son's kingdom. Scholars speculate that she is the historical origin of the witch-queen Rangda. Possibly the queen was cremated on this hill. Her ashes then taken to Gunung Kawi where a tomb dedicated to her was carved out of the riverbank.

In the temple's inner sanctum in the small, white shrine on the right are several statues of Durga. From the lower temple, climb the steep stone steps to the summit of Bukit Dharma through a forest of banyan trees gripping huge volcanic boulders. At the top is a sanctuary with an 11th-century stone frieze of Durga standing on a 'nandi' (bull), possessed by a demon while she delivers the deathblow to the animal.

Though well-worn, her face is still arresting. She carries all the trappings of almost unlimited supernatural power: javelin, shield, bow and arrow, winged conch shell, flaming sharp-edged disk (chakra), and flask containing 'amerta'. With its fine classic Indian lines, this relief is considered one of the most finely wrought sculptures left from the early Pejeng Kingdom.

North of Kutri, Tegallinggah, a complex of unfinished hewn-rock cloisters, niches, pavilions, and 'candi' that has the appearance of a mini Gunung Kawi was abandoned because of an earthquake or some other natural disaster. When it was discovered by Krijgsman in the 1920s, most of the facades and niches had already collapsed.

Excavation and restoration began in the 1950s. You'll need a guide because the access is difficult. South of Kutri is the small village of Buruan, the home of well-known sculptors and dancers. In the banjar of Bangun Liman to the west, the 'pura desa', 'pura puseh' and the 'pura dalem' have been built all in a row.

Usually these temples are in different locations in the village. Down on the riverbanks, to the west of Bangun Liman, troupes of wild monkeys live in a natural habitat.