INTRODUCTION

This mysterious complex, two km east of the statue of the dancer in the Teges intersection, is probably the oldest excavated relic of ancient Balinese art. Epigraphs found at this site date Goa Gajah ('Elephant Cave') with certainty back to the 11th century, about the time of King Airlangga's reign in East Java.

Until 1923 the site was known only to local people, and only in 1954 was an elaborate and extensive bathing place discovered nearby. Today it's a major tourist site.

The easily accessible man-made cave lies below the road between Peliatan and Bedulu, on the side of a steep ravine. It can be a restful place, especially when there aren't mobs of tour buses disgorging passengers onto the mammoth parking lot.

It's best to visit Goa Gajah either in early morning or late afternoon to avoid the tour buses arriving from the southern resorts. Soft 'rindik' music and lyrical flute melodies waft from two expensive tourist restaurants, Puri Suling, above the cave with a lovely location overlooking rice terraces, and Sari Gading, at the other end of the parking lot.

To get there, take a 'bemo' from Ubud to Teges (four km), then continue by 'bemo' or walk two km in the direction of Bedulu. The road from Teges passes over the Petanu River just before reaching the cave.

Once over this bridge you've entered the Old Kingdom of Pejeng, a long tongue of land between the Petanu and Pakrisan Rivers strewn with Bali's most famous and treasured monuments and relics. If coming from the other direction, it's two kilometers from Bedulu.

You know you've arrived when you see the rows of tacky curio stands selling batik, leather goods, garments, carvings, baskets, and the usual tourist crap, plus fruit, snacks, and drinks. You have to pay parking fee, entrance fee, plus sash/sarong rental if your legs are uncovered.

Open every day during daylight hours. A long flight of steps leads down to the site. It's possible to go on foot to Yeh Pulu from Goa Gajah, but the way along 'sawah' dikes is a little tricky. Ask a local boy to guide you.