Travel fifteen kilometers beyond Mengwi on the road to Gunung Catur, by 'bemo' from Wangaya station in Denpasar to Sangeh's parking lot, filled with Super-Kijangs and Suzuki Katanas and surrounded by a big souvenir shop scene.

Here, under towering 30-meter-tall trees, is the holy Monkey Forest, with three clans of sacred, very aggressive monkeys crawling over lichen-covered Bukit Sari ('Nectar of the Mountains') Temple. Built by the royal family of Mengwi in the 17th century, the temple is dedicated to the god Vishnu and was initially used as a place of meditation.

Restored in 1973, today it functions primarily as a 'subak' temple where offerings to agricultural deities are made. Notice the old statue of Vishnu's mount Garuda, and the relief of a Japanese shooting at an airplane.

Legend says the monkey general Hanuman seized the giant cosmic mountain Mahameru in order to deal the evil demon Rawana a deathblow. A piece of mountain with monkeys still clinging to it fell on Sangeh and there they live to this day. There are 10 hectares of pala (nutmeg) trees here, a species not native to Bali; their presence has never been explained, thus contributing to the mystery of the place. Another puzzle is that no monkey bodies or skeletons are ever found.

Buy a bag of peanuts and watch for the King of the Monkeys, also watch out for monkey claws and teeth (carry a stick). Don't get too close to their young and hang on to your glasses, cameras, and hats, and for God's sake don't go with money sticking out of your pockets. These descendants of Hanuman's warriors will grab at any protrusion and won't return a thing unless you divert them with a stick, peanuts, or a banana. Pestering peddlers and begging children are even worse.

Between the tour buses, absorb some of the quiet and serenity of Sangeh's magnificent forest. Walk down the pathway by the river gorge in back. From Sangeh, take a rocky side road that crosses over to Mengwi. From Sangeh an unpaved path leads through the rice fields to Ubud. A poor road leads from Sangeh to Ubud.

North of Sangeh is the rugged Petang district, with lots of fresh air, coffee, cloves, vanilla, and chocolate. Beyond, climb up to Pelaga through rice fields, vegetable gardens, bamboo stands, and more plantations.